Maputo, Mozambique....first impressions

Where: Maputo, Mozambique, Africa
Currency: Metical (MT), exchange rate is approximately 30 MT to $1 USD
Weather: Approaching summer.  30 C / 90 F
Population: 20+ million
Languages: Portugese

My first impressions of Africa are quite polar.  I'm feeling a basket full of emotions in the 48 hours I've been here.  I'm feeling excited and anxious and honestly feel filled with loads of wonder.  I want to see everything, I want to go into every tiny village and every nook of every street and I want to taste every color of every dish that passes by, but I'm held back by a little uncertainty and a little bit of fear.  The US Government issued a traveler warning the day before I arrived - yes, the day before!  The warning was very stern about travel to Mozambique specifically and noted crime surrounding theft and kidnapping.  So, needless to say, I was weary upon entry.

Mozambique is country situated on the Southeastern bank of Africa off the Indian Ocean between the tropic of Capricorn and the Equator.  Its approaching summer here, so the weather has been quite hot, but a little unpredictable as well since yesterday there were atrocious wind gusts coming off the ocean and today it is cloudy and cool.  This country was at civil war for almost 15 years and finally ceased in 1992, so it's still in an infant state of government leadership, regulation and abidance.  They have a lot to learn, just as any other developing nation.

The people here seem incredible and yet, I haven't actually met any locals, formally.  From a distance, they seem to be incredibly happy.  They find joy sitting in plastic chairs in a gas station parking lot just being surrounded by their friends.  The children laugh and play and run around the streets in groups of 4, 6 and 8 at a time.  They sing and chant on their way to school with their giant pink backpacks and blue and navy uniforms.  The waitstaff are friendly, accommodating and sufficient at what they do and so far the food has been quite good, although I'm sure that is due to the fact that I am traveling with an ex-pat that has been here for 6 years.

I do find myself frightened a bit by the 20 and 30 something men, though.  I'm sure they are just as friendly as the older women sitting around, or the women carrying 30-lb bags of rice on their heads or the children laughing in the streets, but the aggressive nature by which they try to make ends meet is startling and a bit intrusive.

Outside of the mall and common shopping areas there are men peddling cigarettes, SIM cards, chips, pop and other odds and ends.  If you even glance in their direction, three of them are instantly standing too-close-for-comfort, pushing products on you and making even the most experienced traveler clutch at their handbag with a bit of guilty fear.  The aggressive selling, their proximity, the limited English and being outnumbered are just too much.  Also, there are parking wars here.  Apparently, individuals have claimed certain bits of land as their territory.  When you park there, they insist that they will "watch" your car to which they are owed dues of your choosing upon completion of your shopping.  This happens everywhere and is an accepted trade for the people of Maputo.  Sometimes there is a territory dispute over who actually watched your car and they attendants will fight over who gets the 15-25 Meticals (50-80 cents).  There is no sign, there is no authority regulating it, there are no valet tickets or anything of the sort.  One just needs to know and accept that upon driving anywhere, it will cost you 15-25 MTs if you need to stop, whether it is at the grocery store, a restaurant, a park, the mall or even a church, I presume.

Its ridiculous and corrupt.  But, they learn from the best, the police.  Evidently, the police are VERY corrupt in Mozambique.  There are a couple of types of police, the white police and the grey police.  The grey police in Maputo walk around with AK-47s. They pull over anyone who does not look like a local and always find a violation.  Whether it is driving without a Mozambican or international driving license, driving too fast, driving too far left in a lane or expired insurance documents, it doesn't matter, there is always something that can be found in violation and conversely can always be corrected with a bribe to the police officer.

Almost every traffic stop results in a payoff, 3000 MTs, 5000 MTs, whatever...you walk away with $100-200 less in your pocket.  In fact, if you plan to travel to Mozambique, you should set aside a budget for corruption, especially if you are renting a car.  Also, it is illegal to take photos of any policemen, government buildings or police stations, walk around without your passport or your Mozambican visa.  I read on Trip Advisor about someone who met the aforementioned police corruption scenario while walking down the street.  He didn't know he had to have his passport with him at all times and walked away 5000 MTs shy.  In many cases they confiscate your camera or passport for a bribe....crazy!

Unfortunately, since my flight got delayed, as soon as I got to Mozambique, we skipped over to Kruger National Park for a safari, but we're back now and hopefully, I'll have a lot of pictures to share of the people, the food and the environment soon.  I'm really excited to be here.  I'm looking forward to the people, the culture and the food outshining the notorious corruption and falling in love with this developing capital city. Stay tuned...I'll have lots more to share.